Sun care sales rose sharply last year as consumers found their way back to the beach. Sales soared nearly 26% in 2021 after a sharp decline in 2020 as the Covid-19 pandemic ravaged the global economy and upset vacation plans around the world. For sun care insights from IRI, click here. More good news appears on the horizon. Last month, Moderna CEO Stephane Bancel said it is “reasonable” to assume that we may be approaching the final stages of the pandemic.

“I think there’s an 80% chance that as Omicron evolves or SarsCov-2 virus evolves, we are going to see less and less virulent viruses,” he told CNBC’s “Squawk Box Asia.” He said there’s another “20% scenario where we see a next mutation, which is more virulent than Omicron.”

Let’s hope not. In 2020, mass market sun care sales tumbled 8.7%, according to IRI. Unit sales fell even further, declining 12.3%. 

Any time that there’s any news of a new strain, it puts a strain on the economy and, in turn, travel plans. Think about it. In December, thousands of flights around the world were canceled during the holiday.

Globally, more than 6,000 flights were canceled across Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and the day after Christmas. In the US, more than 1,200 flights were canceled, and more than 5,000 flights were delayed on December 26 alone. If a covid variant could ruin holiday travel plans, it can do the same to vacation schedules.

“The situation remains still dynamic and various aspects have to be taken into account,” noted Peter Stopfer, head of external affairs, Beiersdorf. “The behavior of consumers can be influenced by different key factors like the geographic location. This factor continues to significantly affect how far consumers are able to return to ‘normal’ life or their daily routines that are closer to life pre-pandemic.”

He noted that curfews and other restrictions on everyday life remain a reality for many people around the world. 

“Therefore, while some consumers may feel more confident about their personal safety, being ready to put covid-19 behind them, there are still various factors that may stop others from moving forward as quickly as they would like to do,” Stopfer added.

Beiersdorf is a major player in the sun care space with brands like Coppertone, Eucerin and Nivea.

Not every sunscreen marketer reported a decline during covid. Josie Maran’s sun care sales have been steady for the past couple of years.

“With the pandemic, consumers are craving the outdoors more than ever—we anticipate the demand will only continue to increase in the coming months,” said Founder and CEO Josie Maran.

Fallene Ltd. markets Cōtz sunscreens. According to Kathy Dwyer, VP-sales and marketing, 2021 sales grew to well above pre-pandemic levels.

“I can’t speak for all sun care, Cōtz  is for daily sun protection than a trip to the beach or on vacation.  People were definitely spending time outdoors.”

Brian Guadagno, founder of Raw Elements, agrees.

“Fortunately, business is stronger than ever,” he told Happi. “Covid seemed to drive people to enjoy the outdoors more and more people are now educated about mineral sun care benefits more than ever before.”

Guadagno explained that consumers today are choosing brands that align with their lifestyles and values. 

“Ingredients, health concerns and environmental issues really matter today, especially in sunscreens,” he asserted. “There is certainly more work to be done and a long way go, but the mineral sun care industry is here to stay.”

Alison Haljun and Kristin Powell, the founders of Kinship, agree. Their sunscreen earned Allure’s Best of Beauty award.

“There’s a huge whitespace for a GenZ lifestyle brand,” explained Powell. “GenZ consumers told us they hated goopy, white sunscreen with unpleasant scents.”

Kinship responded to those demands with the introduction of Self Reflect in 2019.

“We needed to reinvent the category,” recalled Haljun. “We start by thinking of it as skin care, not sun care.”

The SPF 30 formula starts with 22% zinc oxide, but includes ingredients like turmeric, red raspberry seed and omega-3 to reduce inflammation. The formula also contains a probiotic to reduce acne and redness.

“It’s all you need. It’s a one-hit wonder,” explained Powell. “Multipurpose products are the future.”

What’s New for 2022?

A one-hit wonder, maybe. But Kinship is no one-trick pony. Last month, the company rolled out Self Reflect Sport SPF 60. Besides zinc oxide, the formula contains a triple-ceramide complex to strengthen skin’s moisture barrier. It also includes a postbiotic acerola cherry ferment with high vitamin C content to balance the skin barrier and counteract environmental impact.

“When you’re exercising, you need more than sunscreen. Our formula strengthens the skin moisture barrier,” explained Powell.

The company has also reformulated its sunscreen fragrances, which now contain natural orchid, vanilla and Bulgarian rose notes.

“A lot of sunscreen formulas try to cover their chemical smell with overpowering notes of coconut,” said Powell.

Retailers like what they see. Kinship is stocked at Ulta and Credo Beauty.

In January, Beiersdorf launched Eucerin Pigment Control Sun Gel-Creme Tinted with SPF50+ in Europe. The global rollout is ongoing. According to Stopfer, it is the first tinted Eucerin Sun product tailored to the needs of consumers with hyperpigmented skin. It offers comprehensive protection against sun-induced skin damage. And, thanks to the patented active ingredient Thiamidol, the formula reduces hyperpigmentation and covers existing dark spots for an immediate visible effect. The formula is available in medium and light shades.

Coppertone, another Beiersdorf brand, launched Coppertone Complete SPF 30 and SPF 50 lotion. The brand is relaunching its popular Sport and Glow range: Coppertone Glow Protect & Tan SPF 30 and SPF 45 Lotion; Coppertone Sport 4-in-1 Performance Lotion, SPF 15, 30, 50, 70 and 100; and Coppertone Sport 4-in-1 Performance Spray, SPF 15, 30, 50, 70 and 100.

Stopfer noted that sun exposure is one of the main triggers of dark spots. To address it, Nivea developed Nivea Sun UV Face Specialist Spot Control Luminous630 SPF 50.

“The new non-greasy facial sun care fluid combines high SPF 50 for an immediate, highly effective UVA/UVB protection against short- and long-term skin damage with the patented ingredient Luminous630, which prevents and visibly reduces sun-induced spots over time,” he said.

The formula contains Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol to brighten skin and fade dark spots.

Nivea Sun Protect & Bronze and Nivea Sun Intense Bronze are available with improved and cleaner formulas (except ethanolic systems) and more sustainable packaging, as well as a new premium design, according to Stopfer. Protect & Bronze is said to offer a dual effect of immediate and highly effective skin protection against UV rays, activating the skin’s own tanning process for a beautiful and natural tan. In Western Europe, the formula includes a pro-melanin extract that is said to boost melanin. Intense Bronze guarantees reliable skin protection and helps the skin to quickly achieve a beautiful glow—for a golden and long-lasting tan. The formulas are enriched with carotene extract and vitamin E. Both have been reformulated and boast a minimum of 63% biodegradability.

The Protect & Bronze pump spray bottle is made of 95% recycled plastic (without cap and pump) with 47% recycled plastic cap. A sleeve perforation ensures better waste separation, according to the company. Finally, a change in trigger spray bottles has reduced plastic content.

Something for the Kids
For the kids, Nivea Sun relaunched its highly protective and moisturizing sun care ranges: Sensitive Protect for Babies & Kids, Protect & Care and Protect & Play Ultra for Kids. The relaunch includes updated formulas, new design and practical new product formats, according to Stopfer.

“Nivea Sun Babies & Kids Sensitive Protect products offer a 5-in-1 solution with a very high UVA and UVB protection, extra water-resistance, as well as a soothing effect thanks to formulas with organic chamomile,” he explained. “The gentle formulas are pediatrically approved in their skin compatibility and suitable for sensitive and even for eczema prone skin for babies over six months.”

The Nivea Sun Kids Protect & Care range focuses on skin protection of children over three years old and helps parents to protect their children’s delicate skin from sun damage, while still enabling them to play and enjoy time outside. The moisturizing formulas with organic almond oil and glycerin protect the skin from dehydration and is extra water resistant.

“The new Nivea Sun Kids Ultra Protect & Play lotion is the perfect fit for parents with kids who are super active and love playing in the water,” added Stopfer. “The sun cream offers a 3x longer water resistance, as well as a sand and sweat resistance.”

All Nivea Sun Kids formulas are at least 62% biodegradable. The pump spray bottles are made from 95% recycled material (without the cap and pump).

Raw Elements is tackling packaging waste, too. The company added new plant-based bio plastic flexible tubes across SPF and all product categories. These tubes are made completely from plant source, using no petroleum, and have a positive carbon footprint.

“One of the most attractive benefits of the plant-based finished tube is that its properties and function identically mirror traditional petroleum plastics. This is also true in its ability to plug right into all existing recycling infrastructures.  So, in that sense the switch was quite seamless.  Where the challenges lie are in supply chain management, advanced material commitments and cost increases. All of that said, for us the benefits are well worth it,” Guadagno said.

In other moves, Raw Elements moved to full PCR packing for all SPF sticks and lip styles, and zero waste direct print aluminum SPF tins.

“These packaging launches are major enhancements to our environmental sustainability program and effectively remove 99% of virgin plastics from our entire range,” explained Guadagno.

Next month, Raw Elements will introduce its All Season collection at REI. Guadagno said the collection meets all of the needs of the sunscreen consumer prior to, during and post sun exposure. 

“The collection is designed to accommodate outdoor enthusiast through all seasons and conditions year-round,” he explained.

Cōtz Silky Foam isn’t new, but Fallene Ltd. tweaked the formula.

“We are definitely emphasizing the environmental benefits along with the fact that it’s a great mineral sunscreen!,” explained Dwyer. “Silky Foam is a wonderful alternative to spray sunscreens.  Sprays end up in lots of places other than the skin that needs protecting, whereas the foam is applied straight to the skin where it is easily spread.”

Another Silky Foam attribute is that it’s gluten free. According to Dwyer, for consumers that are sensitive to gluten or those that have celiac disease, using gluten-free products is important.

“To meet that need, many retailers also include ‘gluten-free’ as a searchable category in their databases,” she explained. “Since Cōtz products are, in fact, gluten-free, we want to let those consumers know.”

Maran noted that when creating mineral sunscreens, the key SPF actives can be heavy in weight and particle size, creating a formula that can sometimes be thick and heavy leaving a white cast on the skin.

Getting the right ratios of these actives while still ensuring optimal UV protection and a minimal white cast can cause a challenge.

“We formulate sunscreen with very fine particles of these actives and in a very exciting upcoming launch we’ve employed something called microsperse dispersion technology which allows these actives to spread evenly across the skin and blend in beautifully on all skin tones—stay tuned to our socials for more details!” she said.


A Newcomer to the Category

A newcomer to the sun care segment is making waves in the mineral category. Undefined is best known for its “clean” beauty formulas. Now, company Founder and CEO Dorian Morris is taking the brand into sun care.

“SPF is one of the best skin care investments for skin health and to protect your skin barrier. But for a lot of folks, SPF isn’t part of their daily routine—either because they haven’t found a formula that works for their skin tone or they don’t realize its importance,” she said.

Undefined wants to change that by normalizing using SPF year-round—not only in the summer or on vacation—by solving some of the key pinch points that has stopped it from being a staple within the consumer’s skin care regime. R&R Sun Serum is a tinted, broad spectrum mineral SPF 50 with skin nourishing actives like niacinamide, tremella mushroom, jojoba, rosemary and raspberry seed.

“It’s lightweight, fragrance-free, water-resistant and has a universally flattering shade, sans the cast, making it perfect for deep skin tones. Given inclusivity is a core value for Undefined, it was important for me to make sure this product has universal appeal and to work across skin tones,” explained Morris. “In addition to its sun protection, this baby also protects against other environmental aggressors like pollution and blue light. SPF should be part of your daily routine and R&R Sun Serum makes that easy to do.”


Regulatory Issues

What’s not so easy is following the latest moves (or lack of moves) by federal and state regulators.

“Months and years pass and the shadow of regulation uncertainty that arbitrates which ultraviolet filter can or cannot be used in sun care products in the US remains,” noted Happi Columnist Nadim Shaath, PhD, president of Alpha R&D. “The ‘Deemed Final Order’ has still not been finalized by the FDA.”

DSM is awaiting FDA approval for its sunscreen active, Bemotrizinol (BEMT). According to Carl D’Ruiz, DSM continues to support a GRASE determination for BEMT 6% as an active ingredient under the FDA OTC sunscreen monograph.

“At the moment, we are gearing up to start several clinical studies, including pivotal MUsT, SPF and dermal safety studies,” said D’Ruiz. “Once completed, we will provide the results of these studies along with any other agreed upon data endpoints to FDA for final review. Once FDA provides feedback, DSM will prepare a GRASE submission document, hopefully before Q2 2023.”

Once submitted, Ruiz expects that it will take FDA about 7-9 months to make a GRASE determination, which means that if all goes well and according to plan, an FDA decision might be forthcoming around Q1 2024.

D’Ruiz is also the chair of the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) sunscreen committee. He noted that PCPC continues to work with FDA on the industry workplan and approach for supporting the safety of eight sunscreen actives. This month, Alex Kowcz of PCPC will provide an update of consortium activities at both the Photodermatology Society annual meeting in Orlando and the American Academy of Dermatology annual meeting in Boston.  D’Ruiz be there as well and provide an update on BEMT clinical findings to date.


Activity at the State Level

At the state level, Shaath noted that Hawaii is still seeking to ban more ultraviolet filters for use in sun care products and recent legislation has picked up steam with a number of bills both in their House and Senate active and robust.

“And of course, the consumer is totally confused. In short, the sun care industry remains in a state of flux!” added Shaath.

As one might expect, Guadagno of Raw Elements and other physical sunscreen makers, support the ban activities in Hawaii.

As Lambros Kromidas reported in the February issue, Maui County recently passed its ordinance to ban the sale, distribution and use of any “non-mineral” sunscreens on the island. At the state level, there are currently proposed bills that would expand Hawaii’s ban on oxybenzone and octinixate to include all ingredients deemed non GRASE by the FDA in its final ruling.

According to Kromidas, the sunscreen industry must closely monitor the Maui ordinance. He predicted that it will continue to find proponents and will eventually become a law in the state.

“Out of curiosity I went on to the Hawaii State Legislature site (www.capitol.hawaii.gov/), searched for the keyword sunscreen and found a couple of Senate bills (SB 2949  and SB 3001) of interest. They were proposed in January, had Senator Mike Gabbard’s name attached to them, and essentially reflect the Maui Ordinance,” he told Happi.

According to Kromidas, both Senate bills propose to prohibit in the state of Hawaii the sale and distribution of sunscreen products containing ingredients not generally recognized as safe and effective as defined by FDA. 

“Since only the sunscreen actives zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are considered GRASE I by FDA—i.e., safe and effective—all products that contain any of the other sunscreen actives will be impacted in Hawaii if these Bills become law,” said Kromidas. “As Hawaii goes, other regions follow.”

Nearly a year ago, an independent lab shocked the sunscreen industry when it reported its analysis found benzene levels up to three times the conditionally restricted FDA concentration limit of 2ppm in 78 formulations. The report included brands from sunscreen manufacturers including Beiersdorf, Edgewell, J&J and SC Johnson.

Following that study, there were several product recalls, but in the ensuing months, experts have been unable to pinpoint the cause of the benzene contamination. In fact, some observers told Happi the suspected source of benzene comes not from the formula, but rather, the delivery system.

On matters regarding benzene, Stopfer said Beiersdorf has addressed the issues regarding the Coppertone recall that arose last year.

“As always, consumer safety and the uncompromising quality of our products are our upmost concern,” he added.

Guadagno noted that anytime there are contamination concerns, individual companies and the industry as a whole need to take them seriously.

“We certainly have and hired our own toxicologists to ensure that we are always enlisting best compliance practices. We have always been and continue to be transparent in every step of our process,” he said. “We do not use benzene or any type of benzene derivatives in our formulas.  It is still unclear how small traces of benzene contaminates made their way into the sunscreen industry. To ensure this is not and will never be an issue for any of our sunscreens, we third-party test every batch prior to release and make sure that information is available to any consumer that is interested. That is the most effective way to certify against the issue.”


Expansion Activities

In nearly every fast-moving consumer product category, shoppers say they want to know what’s in the products they buy and what impact those products have on the environment. According to Guadagno, the Raw Elements consumer is an outdoor enthusiast, who cares about health, wellness, the environment and makes informed, responsible purchasing choices.

“With our consumer brand ethos, ingredients sourcing, social and environmental responsibility are paramount. There is no question our consumer today expects more from us as a brand and more out of the sunscreens we offer than ever before.”

With that kind of following, Raw Elements continues to expand its retail footprint with its account base growing 25-30% year-over-year. The company expanded its door count significantly within Target this year.

“This is a clear signal to us how consumers at large are willing to pay a premium for the best products in the sun care category,” Guadagno said.

Raw Elements’ footprint inside of REI stores nationally continues to grow. In April, the company expanded its all season collection within select locations as an “Outdoor Apothecary.” Guadagno said the move rounds out its offering to outdoor enthusiasts as a “head to toe,” all-day brand.


More Dispensers, More Inclusivity

Finally, Raw Elements continues to expand its public sunscreen dispenser program within municipal and state governments, inside retail and throughout hospitality.

“We have invested significant resources into this,” asserted Guadagno. “However expensive, we will continue to as we are dedicated to educate, force change and support the environmental and health movement within the sun care industry.”

Undefined has expanded distribution into Target locations nationwide. According to Morris, the move is important in redefining what inclusivity means in retail because there is power in seeing oneself represented at the shelf.

“Representation matters because seeing is believing,” she explained. “(Inclusivity) is broader than merely the color of your skin—it’s information inclusivity as well as economic inclusivity.”

Morris maintains that the new R&R Collection takes a “clean-ical” approach, pairing powerful clinically proven actives with ancient plant wisdom to create understandable and affordable products.

“Undefined meets people where they are on their wellness journey, demystifies plant-based solutions and ultimately I want folks to feel comfortable, empowered and able to find tools to help them thrive,” she said. “Wellness shouldn’t be illusive or exclusive—let’s democratize it.”  



New Ingredients for Sun Care Formulas

Here is a list of sun care ingredients introduced by industry suppliers in the past 12 months. For more information on the products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

Botanicals Plus
Boca Raton, FL USA
Tel: 973-439-1417
[email protected]
www.botanicalsplus.com 
Superfruit FermBiotic G
INCI: Water (and) Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (and) Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract (and) Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract (and) Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract
Applications: All sunscreen applications
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Superfruit FermBiotic G. is a fermented, phytonutrient- and antioxidant-rich, complex that offers optimal environmental protection with pre- and postbiotic properties for skin microbiome wellness. With a HORAC EC50 test value of 7.8 ug/ml, Superfruit FermBiotic G. can; protect skin against environmental stressors by reducing and counteracting production of free radicals that cause oxidative stress; maximize protection against UV damage when used along with sunscreen.


Evonik
Essen, Germany
Tel: 973-929-8000
[email protected]
www.evonik.com/personalcare
Sphinox Defenda
INCI: Hydroxybutyroyl Phytosphingosine
Applications: After-sun treatments
Use levels: 0.02-0.2%
Comments: Inspired by the diversity of ceramide structures, Sphinox Defenda is a unique derivative of the naturally occurring phytosphingosine, offering various skin defense and protection benefits, including UV-induced DNA damage.


Gattefossé
France
Tel: 20-265-4800
[email protected]
www.gattefosse.com
Emulium Illustro
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
Applications: Sun protection
Use levels: 3–5%
Comments: Emulium Illustro is a natural and PEG-free W/O emulsifier highly compatible with organic and inorganic UV filters, able to create stable and ultra-fluid textures. Characterized by its flexibility and performance, Emulium Illustro is easy to use and does not need any co-emulsifier. It is the ingredient of choice for water-resistant sunscreens. 


Jeen
Fairfield, NJ USA
Tel: 973-439-1417
[email protected]
www.jeen.com
Jeesperse Z70CC
INCI: Zinc Oxide (and)  C13-14 Alkane (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Applications: Sun protection
Use levels: 3-5% addition to formulation
Comments: Composed of micronized particles made from a blend of naturally derived and sustainably sourced waxes, it enables formulators to reduce the proportion of UV filter ingredients in formulations while maintaining the same level of skin protection as traditional UV filter-based formulations. 

Lubrizol
Cleveland, OH
800-379-5389
[email protected]
www.Lubrizol.com/personal-care
Sunhancer Eco SPF booster
INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza Sativa Wax
Applications: Sun protection
Use levels: 3-5%
Comments: Composed of micronized particles made from a blend of naturally derived and sustainably sourced waxes, it enables formulators to reduce the proportion of UV filter ingredients in formulations while maintaining the same level of skin protection as traditional UV filter-based formulations.

Micro Powders
Tarrytown, NY
Tel: 914-793-4058
www.micropowders.com
Naturesoft 860S
Applications: Sunscreen lotions and creams, spray; aftersun, lip protection; hair
Use levels: 1-5%
Comments: Naturesoft 860S is an ultrafine spherical upcycled rice bran wax powder that substantially improves SPF performance in both organic and inorganic sunscreen preparations as demonstrated by clinical in-vivo SPF testing.  As an oil binder, Naturesoft 860S reduces heavy, greasy aesthetics imparted by organic sunscreens and oils in formulations.  The spherical particles provide enhanced slip and lubricity.

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc.
Akron, OH
Tel: 1-330-630-9860, 1-800-544-1745
first initial last [email protected]
www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
SPD-T5L
INCI: Dimethicone (&) Titanium Dioxide (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (&) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Stearic Acid
Applications: Sun care lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners
Use levels: 10-30%
Comments: Shin-Etsu SPD-T5L is a fine titanium dioxide powder dispersion in 2 cs Dimethicone that effectively prevents UV radiation from reaching the skin.  The product is essentially non-whitening, with a transparent appearance on the skin, and has a silky, light skin feel.  The dispersion is stabilized by a proprietary branched silicone-polyglycerin copolymer dispersant that helps in breaking down the metal oxide agglomerates to give the dispersion a high active content with low product viscosity.  The dispersant also effectively reduces the density of the metal oxides, thereby enhancing the suspension stability.  The product provides an important tool for the chemists to make low viscosity sunscreen products, including sprays, with a light, non-greasy skin-feel without compromising the stability.  Additionally, SPD-T5L is also effective for use in skin care products to provide even-toned finish. 
X-25-9135
INCI: Dimethicone & Zinc Dioxide & polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and triethoxycaprylsilane
Use levels: 10-40%
Applications: Sun care lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners
Comments: X-25-9135 is a fine zinc oxide powder dispersion in 2 cs Dimethicone that effectively prevents UVA radiation from reaching the skin.  The surface treatment is globally compliant.  It is ideal for use in skin care, sun care and make-up products providing superior even-tone finish.  This dispersion is easily incorporated as a final phase addition using Shin-Etsu standard formulation system. 
KF-6115
INCI Name: Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Use levels:  Pigment dispersant: 5-20% based on the pigment, Emulsifier: 2-7.5%
Applications: Sun care products:  lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners
Comments: KF-6115 is a 100% active silicone dispersant for treating superfine powdered UV filters such as TiO2 and ZnO. It has a unique branched architecture in which the polysiloxane backbone is modified with multiple functional groups including polysiloxanes, polyglycerin and C12 alklyl groups. The alkyl functional groups are responsible for the compatibility with organic formulation ingredients. The branched polysiloxane chains are designed to offer compatibility with silicones and silicone-like skin feel.  The treated UV filter dispersions show high absorption in the UV wavelengths and high transparency in the visible light wavelengths. When compared with a typical dispersant, dispersions with KF-6115 treatment show lower viscosities and with enhanced skin feel and much less whitening.  Further, KF-6115 can emulsify oils ranging from 100% silicone to 100% organic. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids.